Figaro chains: how to choose and care for a timeless link
Among chain styles, the Figaro is one of the easiest to recognise: a rhythm of short links interrupted, at regular intervals, by a longer one. It is worn by men and women, in silver and in gold, as a bare chain or with a pendant. Here is what to know before choosing one.
What makes a Figaro chain
A classic Figaro chain alternates three short links with one elongated link. The links are flattened, like those of a curb chain, so the chain lies flat against the skin and catches the light on its faces.
Variations are common:
- 1+1: one short link, one long link, for a more graphic look;
- 3+1: the standard pattern;
- 5+1 and other ratios, for a chain that reads closer to a plain curb;
- diamond-cut Figaros, with small facets cut into the links to add sparkle.
The style is generally associated with Italian chain-making, and the name is often linked to the character of Figaro from the plays of Beaumarchais and the operas they inspired, although the precise origin of the name is uncertain.
Figaro compared with other chains
| Chain | Look | Strength | Takes a pendant |
|---|---|---|---|
| Figaro | Rhythmic, flat, bright | Good | Yes, if not too fine |
| Curb | Regular, flat, classic | Very good | Yes |
| Rope | Twisted, very shiny | Good | Yes |
| Box | Square links, sleek | Good | Yes |
| Snake | Smooth, flexible tube | Fragile if kinked | Light pendants only |
| Cable | Simple oval links | Good | Yes |
The Figaro sits between the curb, which it resembles, and more decorative chains. It is more interesting to look at than a plain curb but just as easy to wear.
Choosing width and length
Width sets the character. Fine Figaros, under 3 mm, are delicate and suit pendants and layering. Medium widths, 3 to 5 mm, are the most versatile, and are popular as men’s chains worn alone. Wide Figaros make a statement and are heavy in gold.
Length depends on where you want the chain to sit:
- around 40–45 cm: at the base of the neck or just below the collarbone, the usual length for women’s chains with a pendant;
- around 50–55 cm: below the collarbone, a common length for men’s chains;
- 60 cm and more: on the chest, often worn over clothing or layered.
Measure a chain you already wear, or lay a piece of string around your neck to see where a given length falls.
Silver or gold?
Sterling silver Figaros are affordable and bright, and they suit casual wear well. They tarnish and need occasional cleaning. Gold Figaros, in 9, 14 or 18 ct, are more expensive but harder wearing and do not tarnish. For a wide chain worn daily, the weight of gold adds up quickly: ask for the weight in grams to compare prices.
Watch for hollow chains, which look substantial for their price but dent and break more easily than solid ones and are difficult to repair.
Clasps
On a Figaro, look for a lobster clasp, which is strong and easy to use. Very fine chains sometimes have spring-ring clasps, which are more fragile. Heavier chains may have box clasps with a safety catch.
Figaro chains for men
The Figaro is one of the most popular men’s chain styles, worn alone or with a small pendant such as a medal or a cross. Medium widths in silver or yellow gold are the classic choice. Paired with a Figaro bracelet, it makes a matching set without looking overdone.
As a gift
A Figaro chain is a safe gift: it is unisex, easy to wear and goes with most styles. Choose a medium length, which can easily be adjusted with an extension, and a width suited to the person’s usual jewelry.
Care
- Remove it for swimming, sport and sleep: chains caught in a pillow or a sports bag are the ones that break.
- Clean silver with a soft cloth or warm soapy water and a soft brush, rinsing and drying well; gold the same way.
- Store it flat or hung, so the links do not knot.
- Check the clasp and the jump rings regularly: they wear before the links do.
A Figaro chain is a quiet classic. Chosen in the right width and length for the person wearing it, it suits both everyday wear and the occasional dressed-up evening.
